Retirement Fun: Palace Walk, Deoksugung Palace and Seokjojeon Hall

Let's see... the beginning is um... the end is Deoksugung Palace! Last week, my husband and I had a wonderful experience visiting Gyeongbokgung Palace during its evening opening (open twice a year, in the first half and second half of the year; online reservation is mandatory for Korean nationals; open from September 1 to November 6, 2022, and April 5 to May 31, 2023; tickets exclusively sold on 11st.co.kr). We decided to take a daytime walk around Gyeongbokgung Palace, along with the surrounding areas of Samcheong-dong, Insa-dong, and Bukchon.
 
Surprisingly, we decided to have a lunch that doesn't go along with a palace walk: a cheesy pizza. We started searching for pizza places. In the process, we found a pizza place located near the stone wall of Deoksugung Palace. "Oh? Deoksugung? I've seen it a lot and passed by it, but have never actually been inside. Have you been here before? Have you walked along the Deoksugung stone wall trail? Shall we go here?" Then, in our frantic search, we came across many posts praising the impressive Stone Hall within Deoksugung Palace. "Can we see the Stone Hall if we go to Deoksugung?" Well, it turned out that it required reservations as well.
 
Isn't this what retirement life is all about? We planned to visit Gyeongbokgung Palace, but ended up going to Deoksugung Palace because of the pizza. We walked around, explored the modern history related to Deoksugung Palace (referring to the 'modern era' that is closer to our current time. In Korean history, it is considered to have started from 1876 (King Gojong's 13th year) or from the Gabo Reform (1894) when the class system and slave system were abolished), and we will share what we learned about it.
 

https://www.deoksugung.go.kr/en/c/visitor/4

Table of Contents
1. Deoksugung Palace Visiting Information
(1) Guided Tour with a Docent
(2) Free Audio Guidebook Tour
2. Stone Hall Imperial History Museum Visiting Information
3. Deoksugung Palace Story
4. Seokjojeon Korean Empire History
5. Closing and Surrounding Areas
 

City and Palace, View from Seokjojeon Hall @HoneyJar

 

1. Deoksugung Palace Visiting Information  

• Visiting Hours: 09:00-21:00 (Last admission at 20:00)
• Closing Day: Every Monday (Most of cultural/historical facilities are closed on Mondays)
• Admission Fee: Individuals (Ages 25-64) - 1,000 KRW, Groups (10 people or more) - 800 KRW, Korean citizens aged 24 and below or 65 and above - Free, 50% discount for residents of Jung-gu, Free admission on the last Wednesday of each month (Culture Day), Free admission for visitors wearing Hanbok (Korean traditional clothing) (Hanbok Guidelines: https://www.deoksugung.go.kr/c/visitor/2)
• Payment: Payment can be made at the ticket booth next to Daehanmun (entrance gate) or by credit card at the gate (similar to subway fare payment)
• Guided Tour: Available with a docent or using the Shinhan Bank audio guidebook
•     Please refers to Deoksugung Nurizip https://www.deoksugung.go.kr/en/index

(1) Guided Tour with a Docent: Approximately 60 minutes for Deoksugung Palace

• Meeting Point for the Guided Tour: The comprehensive information board located 20 meters straight ahead from the main entrance is where the guided tour of Deoksugung Palace begins. Many cultural facilities in Korea currently offer free guided tours. The more you know, the more you will be amazed. Before visiting, you can check the website to find out the starting time and location of the tour, and simply join it when you arrive. If you need assistance on-site to find out how to participate, you can usually inquire at the information desk located after the ticket booth. By taking the guided tour, you won't find yourself saying, "Oh, there's nothing special here." Number of Participants: Individual visitors can join the tour without separate reservation, while group visitors (10 people or more) must make a prior reservation to participate in the guided tour.
• Foreign Language Tour: Available for foreign visitors only (however, Korean nationals accompanying foreign visitors are allowed to participate).
• There are no foreign language tours on public holidays.

 

(2) Free Audio Guidebook Tour

You can listen to the audio guidebook for free without any registration or procedures. It is provided by Shinhan Bank, but you don't need to be a Shinhan Bank customer. It is helpful to bring your own earsets. The audio files are approximately 3 to 10 minutes long. You can leisurely explore Deoksugung Palace while walking at your own pace and enjoying the commentary. 아름다운은행 덕수궁오디오가이드 (beautifulshinhan.co.kr) This free audio guide is produced by Shinhan Bank as part of their social contribution activities. By strolling along and listening to the audio guide, you can easily and enjoyably learn about various stories of Deoksugung Palace. It also offers audio guides for other locations such as Changdeokgung Palace, Sungnyemun Gate, Gwanghwamun Square, and the Korean Financial Museum.
 
It covers the following six topics about the buildings in Deoksugung Palace:

1. 400 Years of Deoksugung Palace's Stories
2. Crossing the Geumcheon Bridge of Korean Culture: Entering the Era of the Korean Empire
3. The Emperor's Golden Pavilion: Jeonggwanheon and Jeonghwajeon
4. Stories from the Apricot Trees of Seokeodang: Junmyeongdang, Jeongjodang, and Seokeodang
5. Walking Through the Emperor's Daily Life: Deokhongjeon, Hamnyeongjeon, and Jeonggwanheon
6. Determination in Building a Modern Independent Nation: Seokjojeon, National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Deoksugung, and Jungmyeongjeon For example, "Audio Guidebook for Seokjojeon."

 

2. Seokjojeon Korean Empire History Museum Tour Information

• Seokjojeon Korean Empire History Museum Tour Information Advance reservation required for Korean: Pre-reservation for the commentary is equivalent to the internal tour reservation. Limited access is available when accompanied by a guide after making a reservation.
• Reservation: https://www.deoksugung.go.kr/schedule/list?scheduleid=SB On-site reservations are not available for domestic visitors.
• Commentary: General commentary takes approximately 45 minutes, while in-depth commentary takes approximately 60 minutes.
• Ground floor without reservation: The ground floor of Seokjojeon, which consists of the ground floor, 1st floor, and 2nd floor, can be visited without a prior reservation.
• Reservation availability: Reservations can be made starting from 10 days prior to the visit date.
• Reservation capacity: Currently, up to 5 tickets are available. At the time of my application, a maximum of 2 tickets per person could be reserved on a first-come, first-served basis. However, now up to 5 tickets can be reserved. It is necessary to visit the Cultural Heritage Administration website to check the latest information.
• English guided tour: On-site reservation inquiries are available only for oreigners (limited to accompanying foreigners and domestic visitors). Detailed information on reservations can be found at https://www.deoksugung.go.kr/c/schedule/info/SB
• Note: Seokjojeon can only be visited with a guide, so visitors will listen to the commentary together with those who have made a reservation for the tour. For those who want to listen to the commentary in more detail, we recommend the in-depth commentary.

 

3. Deoksugung Palace Story

According to the Cultural Heritage Administration, Deoksugung Palace originated when King Seonjo (born on November 26, 1552, reigned from 1567 to 1608 as the 14th king of the Joseon Dynasty) returned to Hanyang (now Seoul) after seeking refuge in Uiju during the Imjin War in 1592. He combined the Seosinjeon Mansion, the residence of Prince Wolsan (1454-1488, the older brother of King Seongjong and a poet), and surrounding houses to create the "Sireosu" as his temporary palace [Jungnang-dong Temporary Palace]. Later, during the reign of King Gwanghaegun (born on June 4, 1575, reigned from 1608 to 1641 as the 15th king of the Joseon Dynasty), the palace was moved to Changdeokgung Palace, and it was named "Gyeongungung."
 
Deoksugung Palace, resembling a royal palace, experienced a reduction in size due to events such as the Inmok Daebyeong (a power struggle in 1618 when Queen Inmok, the queen consort of King Gwanghaegun, was dethroned and confined to the Western Palace) and the Injo Revolution (a coup in 1623 by the Westerners faction that expelled King Gwanghaegun and the pro-Northern faction and enthroned Crown Prince Injong (Jong) as king). In particular, after King Injo's reign, all buildings except for the Jeonggwanheon Hall and Seokeodang Hall were returned to their original owners.
 
As a result, Deoksugung Palace no longer served as the official residence of the king and the seat of government affairs. After the Eulmi Incident (the assassination of Queen Min, Empress Myeongseong, by a group of Japanese assassins in Seoul on October 8, 1895), Deoksugung Palace reappeared in history. Feeling the threat to his safety from the Eulmi Incident, King Gojong (1852-1919, the 26th king of Joseon and the first emperor of the Korean Empire, reigned from 1897 to 1907) moved to the Russian legation. However, in February 1897, he returned to Deoksugung Palace.
 
Furthermore, after Emperor Gojong declared the Korean Empire, Deoksugung Palace took on the size and formalities of an imperial palace. However, in 1904, a major fire broke out at Deoksugung Palace, and after Emperor Gojong's forced abdication in 1907, the palace underwent significant downsizing. At that time, the palace was nearly three times the size of its current scale. The name of the palace was also changed from Gyeongungung to Deoksugung Palace. In January 1919, following the death of Emperor Gojong, Japan transformed the palace into a park, demolishing many buildings and destroying the palace's appearance, using it for various purposes. In the 21st century, the restoration and reconstruction of Deoksugung Palace began and continue to this day. In 2010, the Jungmyeongjeon Exhibition Hall was opened, and in 2014, the Seokjojeon Hall Korean Empire History Hall was opened.

Seokjojen Hall @HoneyJar

4. Seokjojeon Hall Korean Empire History

Seokjojeon Hall was planned and construction began in 1900 following the proclamation of the Korean Empire by Emperor Gojong in 1897. It was completed in 1910. The plan was developed by J. M. Brown, a British official in charge of the Korean Empire's customs administration, and the design was created by J.R. Harding, a British engineer from the Qing Court. The construction supervision was also carried out by British individuals, including F.A Kartman, Harding, and Davdson. The interior construction was overseen by a British supervisor named Robel, and the construction and furniture supply were handled by the British furniture company Maple. Before starting the construction, a 1/10 scale wooden model of Seokjojeon Hall was made, and this model was introduced in an American architecture magazine in 1900 and still exists. Seokjojeon Hall is a rare modern architectural structure with strict proportions and symmetrical balance, showcasing the features of neoclassical architecture. It includes reception rooms, a banquet hall, bedrooms, and a study, making it a remarkable modern building.
 
Seokjojeon Hall, the largest Western-style building in the Korean Empire, was an unconventional steel-framed concrete structure for its time in Korea. The ground floor consisted of preparation rooms such as a warehouse and a kitchen, while the first floor was dedicated to formal events, and the second floor served as the living quarters for the emperor and empress. Traditional palaces in Korea typically separated the living quarters for males and females, but Seokjojeon Hall combined them into a single space in the Western palace style. In 1911, trees were imported from overseas to complete the front garden of Seokjojeon Hall. The building, constructed in a purely Western style, represents the aspirations and pride of the Korean Empire, which sought modernization and national strength.
 
However, Emperor Gojong did not reside in Seokjojeon Hall but stayed in the nearby Hamnyeongjeon Hall within Deoksugung Palace. It was a space used by Crown Prince Yi Un (October 20, 1897 – May 1, 1970), [Referfence] https://ko.wikipedia.org/wiki/%EC%9D%98%EB%AF%BC%ED%83%9C%EC%9E%90), Gojong's son and the last crown prince of the Korean Empire, during his visit to Korea while studying in Japan (forced study in Japan by Ito Hirobumi in 1907).
 
After Emperor Gojong's abdication, Deoksugung Palace was left abandoned, and Seokjojeon Hall was unable to be used. However, in 1933, under the Japanese occupation and the "Central Government-General's Policy for the Preservation of Deoksugung," Seokjojeon Hall was repurposed as the "Deoksugung Art Museum." Subsequently, in 1938, it was used as the "Former Royal Family Art Museum," then as the venue for the "Committee for the Preservation of Cultural Properties" in 1946, and as the "National Museum" in 1955, losing its original form along the way.
 
In 2009, the Cultural Heritage Administration initiated the restoration project of Seokjojeon Hall with the intention of reclaiming its historical significance in the Korean Empire. By removing the interior walls, the original layout was revealed, and based on floor plans and newspaper articles, the spatial divisions and room placements were determined. The spaces with remaining photographs and other verified materials were reconstructed to depict historical life, while the spaces without such materials were transformed into exhibition halls showcasing the Korean Empire.
 
The furniture placed in the spaces depicting historical life is the furniture that was originally used during the construction of Seokjojeon Hall, which was preserved in the National Palace Museum and Changdeokgung Palace. In the photographs of the furniture arrangement, they are marked in red. The furniture in Seokjojeon Hall was supplied by Maple & Co., a British company (now closed), and 41 pieces of Maple & Co. furniture that remained in Korea were located and placed in their original positions. For any furniture that was missing in the original arrangement, similar high-quality British furniture (antique furniture) was purchased or replicated based on Maple & Co. catalogs and placed accordingly.
 
Ground floor: The ground floor, which was the living space for court ladies, showcases the modern reforms of the Korean Empire, the introduction of newspapers, and provides information about the surrounding area of Deoksugung Palace. It also contains records of the restoration process of Seokjojeon Hall. This area does not require prior reservation for entry, but it does not have a significant amount of records or exhibits to see.
1st floor: The first floor, consisting of reception rooms and the grand dining hall, represents the official spaces of the royal court. It showcases exhibitions related to politics, diplomacy, and ceremonial events of the Korean Empire. The central hall, guest waiting rooms, reception rooms, grand dining hall, and small dining hall have been recreated in this space.
 

Reception Room 1st Floor, Seokjojen Hall @HoneyJar

 
2nd floor: The second floor, which served as the private space of the royal family, is dedicated to introducing the royal court and showcasing exhibits related to Emperor Gojong and Crown Prince Yeongchin. It features the Emperor's bedroom, Emperor's study, Empress's living room, Empress's bedroom, as well as bathrooms and lavatories that have been recreated. The curtains on the second floor are depicted in gold for the Emperor's spaces and purple for the Empress's spaces.
 

Emperor's Library, 2nd Floor Seokjojen Hall @HoneyJar

5. Closing and Surrounding Areas

The day we visited was a rare opportunity to enjoy the clear sky of Seoul. The palaces in Seoul, from the moment you enter, elicit awe and overwhelm us with their grandeur. Turning our gaze from within the palace to the outside, we see mountains and tall buildings surrounding us, creating a juxtaposition of nature and the city, past and present. While the palace exudes tranquility, it also makes us reflect on the greatness of the past. Exploring the Deoksugung Stone Hall, which symbolizes modernization, and learning about figures associated with the "Daehan Empire," we were able to enjoy an enlightening and delightful time not only during our walk in Deoksugung that day but also afterward when we returned home. It provided an opportunity to revisit our modern history, which was briefly mentioned in our old high school history textbooks.
 
By the way, the pizza place next to the Deoksugung stone wall path that led us to Deoksugung was "Made in Chicago Pizza" (Phone: 02-755-674, Address: 2F, 5 Deoksugung-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul, Open daily from 11 AM to 9 PM).

Mushroom Pizza at Pizza Made in Chicago @HoneyJar

 

And I also recommend getting captivated by the unique charm of the juxtaposition between Deoksugung Palace and the roof of the exotic Seoul Anglican Cathedral of the Anglican Church of Korea, which gives the impression of being somewhere in southern Europe when viewed from the National Jeongdong Theater's Seesil Terrace and Rooftop Garden (Address: 16 Sejong-daero 19-gil, Jung-gu, Seoul, Open from Wednesday to Sunday, 09:00 AM to 09:00 PM, Closed on Mondays, Free Admission).

 

Seoul Anglican Church of Korea @HoneyJar

 
And don't forget to take a walk along "Gwangjong's Path" or explore "Jungmyeongjeon" (currently under construction and not accessible, with no accurate information available regarding completion). And lastly, make sure not to miss the famous Deoksugung Stone Wall Trail!